Claire McCardell

Published in 1998 by Harry N. Abrams, this monograph serves as the definitive retrospective on Claire McCardell, the influential American fashion designer who pioneered the concept of casual, functional sportswear in the mid-20th century. Kohle Yohannan authored the text to coincide with a major exhibition at the Fashion Institute of Technology, aiming to restore McCardell’s reputation as a modernist visionary whose 'American Look' prioritized the mobility and comfort of the active woman over the rigid silhouettes of Parisian couture.

The book features extensive archival photography and sketches that highlight McCardell’s signature use of humble materials like denim, jersey, and gingham to create sophisticated, wrap-style garments. Yohannan’s research details her rise during the 1940s and 1950s, contextualizing her work within the social shifts of the era and her struggle to gain recognition in an industry that favored European influence. Upon its release, the volume was critically lauded for its meticulous documentation and its success in establishing McCardell as one of the most significant designers in American fashion history.